Ham is produced only then produce at a self-sufficient sex. Farmer is a course mostly souse, wash the pig leg suspension that bask in to be in kitchen, the flue gas that relies on to make a fire is fumed bake, become via fermenting for a long time. Only then first crop is few, divide outside be being fed oneself, with the gift relatives and friends is mixed between on market sells. As the development of goods economy, the production of ham develops the business moral character that becomes mill of a kind of handicraft industry to produce gradually. At the beginning of 17 centuries, the handicraft industry of Zhejiang and business fit develop, according to bright generation midday of third of 10 thousand all previous year " Lan Xi county annals " carry: "City civilian is course of study differ, do not jump over farming labour merchant just " . "Far and estate business person. Or wide, or Fujian, or plain, or abundant, or Su Hang or Nanjing, compare in order to carry with the boat also " . To 17 centuries evening golden China ham is exported abroad, according to " the Zhejiang of clear generation saves overseas trade " carry: "Have first-rate silk and paper from what Zhejiang carry goes to Guangzhou, still have fan, pen, wine, jujube and golden China ham, and a kind of very high classy tea, " tea of Dragon Well tea " .
19 centuries end arrives at the beginning of 20 centuries, our country ham produces rapid progress. According to 1929 " industrial and commercial semimonthly " carry: "The crude place of production of ham, all over place of government office of China of a thousand pieces of gold to belong to each county, and the person that be produced with Lan Xi is most. Cha Lanxi one county, ham goes 5 the home, legs spread more than 30. Leg of Dong Yang course of study person more than 300. Justice black makes an appointment with 300. Jin Hua, Pu Jiang, Wu Yi each hundred, leg travel hire hands 229 people, small shop also employs more than 10 people, what its do business is big, see one spot, produce per year a quantity to be made an appointment with in all 94 reach 960 thousand " . At that time, the ham manufacturer of Zhejiang basically is centered in Jin Hua place to belong to each county and Hangzhou city, and folk bloats door numerous, according to 1933 " Chinese industrial annals (Zhejiang saves) " carry: "This kind bloats door, come loose more place country, do not have name of official name inn, its count reason to be investigated not easily truly " . The ham business that to 1946 Hangzhou city is managed and holds battalion concurrently has 117. Announce power ham is civilian souse for the most part, hold total output about 90 ％ , and the firm that buys ham of bright leg souse is in 30 time whole area only tens of homes, its produce the forehead to hold total output only 10 ％ . Arrive after the War of Resistance Against Japan, produce per year a quantity to be 1.1 million kilograms. Boreal leg production is like Gaowei center with Jiangsu province, peaceful is promoted, river, the peaceful county, county such as Jing Jiang also has production. Business of 6 exit ham of Shanghai collected money 1929 initiate China controls leg company, establishing ham plant like Gao and build new-style shambles, after before executing a pig to be slaughtered only, be being slaughtered, examine, industrial department approves Kuomintang government this company enjoys exit monopoly, produce per year a quantity to ever amounted to 120 thousand. The skilled worker that makes a leg all fastens person of Zhejiang orchid brook. (see " data of the literary history that be like Gao) 94 pages " . Boreal leg production was with be like Gao 1932 most fill, the manufacturer that make a leg plan amount to 31, tai Xingyi has 18, river, the place such as peaceful county, Jing Jiang 10. Produce per year a quantity to ever amounted to 816 thousand.